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Discount Store Is New York Beachhead for Nordstrom

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY – After more than a century, Nordstrom, the upscale department store chain from Seattle, will make its Manhattan debut on Tuesday.

But don’t expect $4,000 dresses.

Expect 25,000 pairs of discounted shoes, and an automated checkout line more at home in a supermarket than a purveyor of luxury goods.

While retailers of Nordstrom’s caliber typically come to New York to erect sumptuous flagships, Nordstrom is introducing itself here with a low-cost sister store in Union Square — mere steps from Filene’s Basement.

Discount Store Is New York Beachhead for Nordstrom, carlacummingsphotography.comThe store, Nordstrom Rack, is good news for the pocketbooks of the fashion-conscious, though not necessarily for the brand’s first impression in New York. For instance, Nordstrom’s customer service is a hallmark of the chain, but the Manhattan store will not offer that level of attention.

“Ideally we would have led with a full-line store,” Blake W. Nordstrom, the company’s president, told reporters on Monday during a walking tour of the new store.

Yet finding a suitably luxurious location in Manhattan is like finding the perfect bowl of porridge. Many spaces are too small, too dark or have ceilings that are too low. And competition for big, alluring spaces is stiff (read: astronomically expensive).

Even the new Union Square store is, at 32,136 square feet, slightly smaller than the typical 35,000-square-foot Nordstrom Rack. Besides, it takes a year or two to find a suitable spot and open a Rack, Mr. Nordstrom said. Opening a traditional Nordstrom takes on average of four years.

“Nordstrom has been trying for years to get a store in New York City proper,” said Bill Dreher, a senior retailing analyst with Deutsche Bank Securities. “A traditional Nordstrom department store would do very well in the Manhattan market.” Read more »

Off-Kilter and British (Is That Redundant?)

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY – THEY buried Malcolm McLaren in a suit, a new one. At least, that’s what he’d asked for. Mr. McLaren, who died last month at 64, spearheaded punk music and style in London in the 1970s by cutting the Sex Pistols, jaggedly, more or less from whole cloth and by operating, with Vivienne Westwood, the boutique Sex, which offered the lifestyle to go — when the store could be bothered to open, anyway.

Off-Kilter and British Is That Redundant, carlacummingsphotography.comBut Mr. McLaren’s own look was always careful, purposeful, even as he cultivated decay around him. He certainly would have loved the clothing made by Joseph Corre, his son with Ms. Westwood, under the label A Child of the Jago. It’s exclusively carried in the United States by Any Old Iron, which opened in March on a cluttered stretch of Orchard Street.

Like many of the lines in the store — British, all — it embodies the uniquely British tension between dignity and dishevelment. These are clothes that allow you to show that you’re aware of what it means to be a gentleman, but that you’re choosing — for reasons of frustrated legacy, or thin pockets, or suspect taste — not to be. Take the tartan blazers made of hefty cashmere with contrasting stitched-on belts ($1,050 to $1,080), or the slouchy bluish-gray cardigan that drops almost to the knee, with pockets that hang loose as if they’d been weighed down with stones ($399). Both are variations on classic silhouettes, though not so much as to be truly disruptive.

The line also features a soft military-inspired pullover, fit for a drum major ($310), and a black-and-white graphic print jumpsuit ($475), attire for the most fashionable jail in (either) Soho. Prefer to keep the riot below your waist? There are $310 jeans to match.

But right: can you wear these clothes? Depends which band you’re in, I suppose. Mr. Corre was a founder of the lingerie line Agent Provocateur, and here again, fantasy is in play. These are clothes for fashion shoots and theater performances and maybe Halloween, echoes of a once-lived lifestyle that now feels anachronistic.

In its long and narrow space, Any Old Iron carries only a handful of brands, representing a few streams of off-kilter British style. They’re not necessarily for everyone, though — even all Anglophiles. On my walk over to the store, I bumped into a friend who has spent time on the road with the Libertines and who used to pen-pal with Andrew Loog Oldham. When I told him where I was going, he frowned — winced, really — then suggested I tell Any Old Iron to hire him for consulting services. Read more »

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